Taiwan Jiufen & Jinguashih 24 Apr 2008

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On the eve of our departure from Taiwan, we decided to self-explore the famous Jiufen (or Nine portions) village, located within the hills in northeastern Taiwan. Jiufen used to be the center of gold mining but now owed its fame to production of period movies.

To go to Jiufen, we took a bus from Changlung Street (where we stayed at Leofoo Hotel) to Taipei Railway Station. From here we took a 40 minutes train ride to Ruifang and another 10 minutes bus ride to Jiufen. The bus and train were notably clean and punctual.

We dropped off at the Main Bus Stop of the village at 11.40 a.m. and explored the nearby Jinshan Street which runs through the village. Along the street there were shops vending various famous local dishes. Next we explore the adjacent vertical Shuci Street with many unique and period teahouses.

At about 2.30 p.m. we took another short bus ride to a nearby Jinguashih village. We spent about 1½ hours trekking through the village area to view the distinctive Teapot Mountain, the Yin-Yang Sea and the scenic mountain surroundings. The imposing mountains seemed to be devoid of tall trees as we could clearly make out the gazebos or pavilions dotting the mountain trails. The mountain trails looked so ever inviting. But alas, we could only drool over them as we had to make our way back to Taipei at 4 p.m.

Approximately 580 meters high, Teapot Mountain is shaped like a handleless teapot. The Teapot Mountain itself is an ore body. It is a breccia ore chimney, comprised mainly of silicified sandstone and shale. With regard the Yin-Yang Sea, the dual colours of yellow and blue at the bay was a result of large amount of pyrite that, after millions of years has formed floating Fe3+ particles which do not dissolve easily in water.

Transport & Food Cost = NT250 (RM25) pax

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2762.

The End.

Taipei & Mt Qixing Hike 22-23 Apr 2008

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From Alishan, our bus headed towards Taipei on 22.4.08. Many of us took the opportunity to catch up with our sleep during the long journey to Taipei. We stopped by Jiji, a quaint railway station town for lunch. On arrival at Taipei in the afternoon, our bus left us at Taipei 101 for a whirlwind tour of the world tallest building. Thereafter, we visited Chiang Kai Shek (CSK) Memorial Hall before ending our day at Huaxsi Tourist Mall for dinner & shopping. CKS Memorial Hall has since been renamed as National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall.

The next morning, after a quick walk through Chiang Kai Shek (CKS) Shilin Residence noted for its beautiful flowers and manicured garden, we left for Yangmingshan (YMS) National Park with the aim of climbing its highest mountain, Mt Qixing (Seven Star Mt).

To our chargin, it started to drizzle the moment we stepped out of the bus upon arrival at YMS’s Visitor Centre. The YMS’s official was however nonchalant about the gloomy weather and encouraged us to trek up using the nearby Miaopu trail located on the South-West of the mountain and return via Siaoyoukeng trail which ends on the North-West side.

Starting at the Miaopu trailhead at 10.40 a.m., we took 1 ½ hours to climb up the 2.27km long basalt pavers (concrete steps) which snaked all the way to the peak at 1,120m high. The tropical rainforest gave way to scrub-like trees and tall silvergrasses when we approached the summit. YMs is supposed to be a grassland ala Broga Hills. Unfortunately, we saw nothing except white mist because of the awful weather. At the peak, we could feel the strong winds and heavy rain drops due possibly to the absence of any trees. We also had to crouch behind rocks to shelter ourselves from the howling wet winds. After a quick photography session, we scrambled downhill rapidly to evade the thick mist which had begun to envelope the peak.

On our way downhill, I had to change into my proper rain jacket because the wind kept my thin poncho (Malaysian type) ‘flying’ about me, thus marring my movements. The trek downhill was treacherous because of the slippery terrain as well as poor visibility due to the thick mist. The mist was so heavy that we could not see more than 6 ft ahead of us. Nevertheless, we took sometime to examine the geothermal clouds steaming from fumaroles encrusted with yellow sulfur. We managed to reach Siaoyoukeng trailhead (elevation of 811m) at 1 p.m. after trekking 1.6km downhill for less than 1hr.

The rest of the afternoon was well spent at the National Palace Museum which has the most awesome collection of Chinese artifacts outside mainland China and the Martyr’s Shrine where we witnessed the changing of guards; followed by dinner and shopping at the famous Shilin Night Market.

For the photographs, please refer to: http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2569.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/05/taiwan-jiufen-jinguashih-24408_3.html

Taiwan Mt Dadong & Alishan 20-21 Apr 2008

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On our way to Alishan we stopped by a popular tourist spot named Fenchihu which is located in Chuchi Township in west-central Taiwan's Chiayi County. At 1,405 meters above sea level, it marks the halfway point on the way to the top of Alishan (Mt Ali) on the renowned forest railway. We explored the surrounding area especially the hundred-year-old street (behind the station) which is actually an alley of low wooden buildings, no more than 500 meters, long selling the famous "Alishan Railway Lunchbox" and high altitude food products such as bamboo shoots and aiyu jelly. With the decline of the logging industry, Fenchihu now survives mainly on tourist business.
Immediately after lunch we headed for the nearby Mt Dadong scenic area. A few of us chose to hike up the 7 km trail to the peak over other lesser trails in spite of the gloomy weather. It was about 2.20 p.m. when we embarked on the hike. Ten minutes into the trail, we noted that place was getting misty and foggy and a returning hiker advised us to hurry as it might rain. In view of this, we quicken our pace and opted for a shorter but steeper route. The trail was dry and it cut through a forest of nice bamboos initially and later cypress trees. Surprising, visibility improved as we approached the summit. It was about 3.10 p.m. when we reached a very brightly lit peak (elevation:1,975 meters) whereupon sits a solid pavilion shelter. Unfortunately, it was too misty/cloudy to view anything from the peak. We left the place at 3.30 p.m. and took more than 1 hour to return to base because firstly, we took a longer route downhill and secondly, we took time to savour the beautiful trail lined by tall straight cypress trees.
The following morning sunrise viewing turned out to be a disappointment. Another major disappointment was the total absence of any Alishan tribal/cultural activities. Apparently, the tribal people have been resettled elsewhere and the younger generation has since joined the mainstream of society. After breakfast, the only option left was to explore the Alishan Forest Recreation Area which boasts of beautiful trails, many scenic spots, charming Sakura cherry trees and thousand years old cypress trees as well as variety of birds. Later that day, we also had to miss out on sunset viewing due to the rain.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2568.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/05/around-taipei-mt-qixing-hike-22-230408_3.html

Taiwan East & South 18-19 Apr 2008

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At Hualien, we went on an eating spree the whole morning; tasting all sorts of food we could lay on hands on. The best was the silky smooth Won Ton. Apparently, the stall has been in operation for over 3 generations and enjoyed the continual patronage of CKS and family members.

It was a welcome change in scenery when our bus took the coastal road southwards to Jhihben and Kenting for a night each, before swinging northwards to Alishan.

Along the way, we explored some scenic spots, namely iping (Stone Stairs Platform), Baxian (Eight Immortals) Caves, Amei Aborigine Cultural Village, Tropic of Cancer Sundial Tower, Sansientai (Three Fairies Island), Shuiwangsanliu (Water running up), Siaoyeliou (Little Fossil Rocks), Eluanbi (Taiwan’s Tip) Park, Maobitou (Cat’s Nose) and Bai Sha (White Sand) Beach. Also, we did stop by Donghe to taste its famous meat dumplings (pau).

Generally, this leg of the trip could be considered the most relaxing.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2481.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/05/taiwan-mt-dadong-alishan-20-21408_1.html

Taiwan Baiyang Fall & Taroko 17 Apr 2008

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At Taroko National Park, we spent a night at China Youth Corp Activity Centre at Tienhsiang. The room was clean and neat. The place has full meeting/conference facilities. Apparently, it has a chain of 14 outlets, located at scenic areas throughout Taiwan, to cater for family and group tours also. I like its motto: We serve the Youth and the Youth Serve the Country. At Hualien centre, I noted youngsters attending night classes.
We arrived at the Baiyang Waterfall Trail at 8 a.m. The trail is characterized by the number of tunnels.

Beginning with the 1st tunnel of 380 meters long to the last tunnel before the Water Curtain, one has to pass through 7 tunnels along the 2.2 km trail. Some of the tunnels are as straight as a pencil and light can be seen at the end. Others however are curved with pitch-black interiors. The trail was originally built by Taiwan Power Company in 1984 to develop hydroelectric power in the area. The plan was subsequently ditched. The trek was easy and pleasant. Along the way, we were rewarded with scenic views of the pristine river and mountains. We took about 1 hour to reach the 1st Water Curtain Cave. Subsequent Water Curtain Caves were closed because of loose ground rock. The Water curtain, created by spring water falling from the tunnel roof, was a spectacular sight and so surreal. It was a challenge photographing the water curtain in dim lights while getting drenched at the same time.

Our next trek was 1.9 km Jiucyudong tunnel or Tunnel of 9 Turns of a Coiled Dragon. This is the most magnificent part of Taroko Gorge, where the sheer cliffs face each other. The two cliffs are so close to each other, and it looks like they are joining to each other if seen from afar. The narrowest distance between the cliffs is only around 10 m. The trail is actually a tar road (close to vehicles) carved into the marble cliff. The views of rock folds, joints and faults of the white marble cliffs plus the cascading river were simply breathtaking. The trek took us 30 minutes only.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2388.

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Taiwan Sun Moon Lake 16 Apr 2008

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Though not fully recovered from our Yushan trek, we decided to push off early, at 8 a.m. from Dongpu towards Taroko as we had a long journey ahead of us. The journey took us through the scenic Sun Moon Lake and Wuling of HeHuanshan.

The massive turquoise Sun Moon Lake (reservoir) looked stunning especially when set against a backdrop of green forested mountains. The lake got its name from its shape, which resembles the northern Chinese symbol for 'sun' and the southern Chinese symbol for 'moon.' This popular vacation spot is famed for its idyllic and peaceful atmosphere.

Wuling, at 3,275 meter altitude, is the highest public road accessible point on the island of Taiwan.The road leading up to Wuling is narrow and winding throughout. Our bus driver cum owner, Mr Chen Yu Yi had to resort to his bus walkie-talkie to gauge the traffic flow and conditions. Inevitably, our bus had to stop on many occasions to allow oncoming traffic to pass by. When we arrived at Wuling, the weather had turned for the worse. Our hope for a 15 minutes trek up to Hehuanshan’s Main Peak (altitude: 3,416m), mere 150 meter in net elevation, was dashed by the rain and strong cold winds. We were however blessed with a view of a beautiful rainbow against the Hehuanshan mountain range. Somehow, the alpine mountain scene appeared extra alluring in the mists.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2361.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/04/taiwan-baiyang-fall-taroko-tunnel-trek_29.html

Taiwan Jade Mt 13-15 Apr 2008

Immediately on arrival at Taipei Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport, we were whisked off at 3 p.m. by our Guides Mr Rey Chuang and Mr Hse, fondly known as Bao Ker, in a colourful 25-seater bus to a small town Shih-Cho for an overnight stay. Enroute to Shih-Chor, we made 3 stopovers to answer nature calls, for a sumptuous dinner of 10 dishes in preparation for the following day hike and to buy packed lunches for the next 3 days as well as rain trousers (NT170 a pair). We reached our hotel destination at 9 p.m. and were advised to sleep early as we had to rise early for an hour trip to Shang Dongpu, the starting point for the hike.

As we were late and missed the scheduled minivan, we had to trek 10 minutes uphill from Shang Tungpu to Tataka Squad area. From where we took a 10 minutes minivan ride to the trail head or commonly known as Tatajia Saddle (Elevation: 2600m). Fortunately, we had our porter bags collected and transported to Tatajia Saddle earlier for our 2 porters to organize our food and personal loads (max 30kg per porter).

Starting 8 a.m. and arrived at Paiyun Lodge, 3402m elevation (ala Laban Rata) at 3 p.m. with many photography breaks and a long tea-break along the way. The typical time to trek 8.5 km to Paiyun is 5 hours. Apparently, those who arrived early at Paiyun Lodge had to wait outside in the cold for the check-in time at 2 p.m. The dry stony trail was well marked with milestones and faded billboards pointing out interesting sights and scenes. Overall, the trek was enjoyable and not too strenuous given the cool weather.

After an early dinner, we were told to sleep early to prepare for the following dawn hike of 2.4 km to the Jade Summit. Morning call was at 1.30 a.m. We had congee for breakfast and set out at 2.45 a.m. in the dark. Before that, our Bao Ker did a quick inspection to ensure we were properly attired for the hike. As there were many climbing groups, our Guides insisted that we stayed together as a group. In the dark, we could only feel the stony uphill trail. It became very windy and cold when we approached the Wind Tunnel towards the Main Peak – North Peak intersection. From here, a long iron chain was implanted on the slope surface to guide hikers up to the summit as well as to assist one from slipping down the scree. The ascent could be described as treacherous because of loose rocks and stones coupled with strong icy winds. All of us managed to reach the summit (3952m) before 5.30 a.m. to witness the splendid golden egg yolk sunrise.

The descent was equally challenging and slow given the loose terrain. At the Main Peak-North Peak intersection, we turned right towards North Peak. On approaching the North Peak Saddle, we decided to give North Peak a miss and trekked another 24 km towards Battonguan and thereon to Guangau (Elevation: 2600m) for a night stay before trekking another 18 km the next day to Dongpu (Elevation: 900m). During our trek downhill, we saw a nice reversal in forest vegetation from short entangled shrubs at the North Peak saddle area to broad leaf forest near Dongpu. Except for several collapsed sections of the trail which rendered navigation along the steep hill slopes nerve wrecking, the trek was generally pleasant. Along the way, we crossed crystal clear rivers and waterfalls as well as passed through beautiful alpine forest, mossy forest, and dwarf bamboo plain and grass meadow.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2082.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/04/taiwan-sun-moon-lake-hehuanshan-160408_29.html