Sunday 13 April 2008

Taiwan Jade Mt 13-15 Apr 2008





Immediately on arrival at Taipei Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport, we were whisked off at 3 p.m. by our Guides Mr Rey Chuang and Mr Hse, fondly known as Bao Ker, in a colourful 25-seater bus to a small town Shih-Cho for an overnight stay. Enroute to Shih-Chor, we made 3 stopovers to answer nature calls, for a sumptuous dinner of 10 dishes in preparation for the following day hike and to buy packed lunches for the next 3 days as well as rain trousers (NT170 a pair). We reached our hotel destination at 9 p.m. and were advised to sleep early as we had to rise early for an hour trip to Shang Dongpu, the starting point for the hike.

As we were late and missed the scheduled minivan, we had to trek 10 minutes uphill from Shang Tungpu to Tataka Squad area. From where we took a 10 minutes minivan ride to the trail head or commonly known as Tatajia Saddle (Elevation: 2600m). Fortunately, we had our porter bags collected and transported to Tatajia Saddle earlier for our 2 porters to organize our food and personal loads (max 30kg per porter).

Starting 8 a.m. and arrived at Paiyun Lodge, 3402m elevation (ala Laban Rata) at 3 p.m. with many photography breaks and a long tea-break along the way. The typical time to trek 8.5 km to Paiyun is 5 hours. Apparently, those who arrived early at Paiyun Lodge had to wait outside in the cold for the check-in time at 2 p.m. The dry stony trail was well marked with milestones and faded billboards pointing out interesting sights and scenes. Overall, the trek was enjoyable and not too strenuous given the cool weather.

After an early dinner, we were told to sleep early to prepare for the following dawn hike of 2.4 km to the Jade Summit. Morning call was at 1.30 a.m. We had congee for breakfast and set out at 2.45 a.m. in the dark. Before that, our Bao Ker did a quick inspection to ensure we were properly attired for the hike. As there were many climbing groups, our Guides insisted that we stayed together as a group. In the dark, we could only feel the stony uphill trail. It became very windy and cold when we approached the Wind Tunnel towards the Main Peak – North Peak intersection. From here, a long iron chain was implanted on the slope surface to guide hikers up to the summit as well as to assist one from slipping down the scree. The ascent could be described as treacherous because of loose rocks and stones coupled with strong icy winds. All of us managed to reach the summit (3952m) before 5.30 a.m. to witness the splendid golden egg yolk sunrise.

The descent was equally challenging and slow given the loose terrain. At the Main Peak-North Peak intersection, we turned right towards North Peak. On approaching the North Peak Saddle, we decided to give North Peak a miss and trekked another 24 km towards Battonguan and thereon to Guangau (Elevation: 2600m) for a night stay before trekking another 18 km the next day to Dongpu (Elevation: 900m). During our trek downhill, we saw a nice reversal in forest vegetation from short entangled shrubs at the North Peak saddle area to broad leaf forest near Dongpu. Except for several collapsed sections of the trail which rendered navigation along the steep hill slopes nerve wrecking, the trek was generally pleasant. Along the way, we crossed crystal clear rivers and waterfalls as well as passed through beautiful alpine forest, mossy forest, and dwarf bamboo plain and grass meadow.

For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/2082.

Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2008/04/taiwan-sun-moon-lake-hehuanshan-160408_29.html

20 comments:

  1. Certainly a very memorable as well as rewarding trip. I could feel the sentiments as I read and see the pictures.
    Congrats - as you pass this milestone in life. Envy you.

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  2. Thank you for your comments, Uncle Khong. At Paiyun Lodge, I also sighted a variety of birds. One attractive bird is the red Vinaceous Rosefinch. Unfortunately, the photos were blur.

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  3. How come everything looks "senget". Ooi, do you know how to hold the camera?

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  4. Yours truly lah! To quote Beckham: I think the ground just gave way behind me and, having lost my balance, I lost control of the camera, instead of "ball"... Ha! Ha! Ha!

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  5. No, I was checking where you have dropped off from the rock :-D

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  6. i will take the wind tunnel pictures, didn't take any there :)

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  7. going down was so ..... "difficult" ~~~ didn't take any also, i shall copy :) hope u dun mind :)

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  8. U are welcome. I remembered my finger tips (wearing fingerless gloves to ease photography) were numbed from freezing cold due to holding onto the icy cold iron chain constantly when descending from the summit. It was so cold despite the good weather. Can't imagine trekking on this type of terrain in the rain...likely to give up and slide all the way downhill and have our buttocks bruised and cut:-D

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  9. look like " feather duster "? :-) very nice flower.
    Which is better comparing Mt.k.k n Tawan jade Mt.?
    Thks.

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  10. In terms of trail distance and net elevation, it is less than Mt K. However, the trail is difficult to trek because of the loose sharp rocks and stones. We need to focus on every single step lest we stumble over protruding rocks or step on loose rocks and slip down the steep cliffs (of no return). This is very tiring. The bitter icy cold wind near the summit region is no joke too. I think one can died from hypothermia here. Our Guides literally inspected our attire before our climb to the Summit.

    The forest vegetation is too different to compare also.

    Put it this way - it is totally a different experience and Mt K's trail is less dangerous.

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  11. i look super tired :) like going to sleep liao :) LOL

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  12. Thanks for this album, Boh Seng. I'm climbing in June, so it's good to know what it's like, and how cold it can get. Do you have to carry your personal gear yourself? I was banking on porters a la Mt K.

    Yian

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  13. Hi Yian,

    June is summer in Taiwan. Guess the weather at Jade Peak will be like Mt K but maybe colder due to the strong wind. One porter carried our group foodstuff (30kg), leaving the second porter to carry our personal belongings (limited to 3kg pax for 10 pax) from place to place. However, we carried our own drinks, camera, food and items which we required along the trail. At least a week notice is required to engage porters and their charges are more expensive than the Guide. Unlike LR, facilities at Paiyun (and Guanggao, if you are taking a loop instead of back trekking) are very basic - bunk beds and common cooking stoves only. There are no washrooms; only public toilets. Power source is limited to lighting only.

    Let me know if you need further input. Happy Trekking Always!

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  14. Thanks for the information, Boh Seng. We had intended to take the loop instead of backtracking, but our group has been reduced to 4 people, and our Taiwanese friend says it's expensive to take a minivan from Guanggao (I assume that's where it is) if there are only 4 people. What say you? I'd rather take the loop than backtrack, of course.

    Do you need to take your own sleeping bag? Since there are bunk beds, I gather we don't need to carry mattresses.

    So no showers for the few days you were there? :-)

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  15. There is an old timber road from Guanggao to Shueili. It is no longer in use, per our Guides. U will have to trek (not the timber road) from Guanggao to Dongpu. From Dongpu you can go to Shueili by road (50 mins). Yushan Visitor Centre is at Shueili where you can buy Yushan souvenirs.

    The Guanggao-Dongpu trail is scenic and you would not want to miss it. From an elevation of 2600m to 900m, you will pass through a nice change in vegetation; from alpine to mossy forest, dwarf bamboo groves and finally the subtropical vegetation. The distance is about 18K and estimate trek time is 4 hrs.

    You must bring along your sleeping bag, preferably the down feathers type which is warmer. Except for body heat (close sleeping proximity) there is no heater at Paiyun or Guanggao. Yes, you need not bring any mattress. The bunk bed is lined with a thin rubber layer which is a good insulator against the cold air.

    Yes! No showers for 3 days because no washrooms. It was too cold for us anyway. We wore the same set of clothes for 3 days! Just bring cold wipes. You can clean yourself and soak yourself "red" in the hot spring when you arrive at Dongpu.

    Besides the Main Peak, please cover the North Peak, if you can. From North Peak, you can get the iconic picture of Jade Mt Main Peak.

    Have a good trip with your friends.

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  16. Thanks for the tips. I shall suggest this to our Taiwanese friend. I'm going with my son and my sister.

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