Day 9 marked the start of our Bhapa Pass Trek. After a quick tour of the ancient Tabo Monastery of mud buildings, we headed towards Mudh at 11 a.m. It was certainly a long 3 ½ hours drive through the Spiti Valley flanked by imposing barren mountains. There were hardly any vehicles in sight except for our 4 vehicles churning out voluminous dust as they speeded along the river bank. We had a long tea break at Mudh while waiting for our horse caravan to arrive from our last campsite (on Day 7) to carry our luggage for the trek. With daylight running short, our group left Mudh at 4.15 p.m. and did a short trek to a nearby campsite across a river to wait for the horse caravan.
We started our trek at 8 a.m. the next morning (Day 10) towards Bara Bolander, the base camp for the Bhapa Pass. It was a relatively easy trek taking 8 hours from an elevation of 3800m to 4100m asl through an arid treeless region with no living creatures except us. Of course, we delighted by sights of wild flowers starting to bloom. The most challenging event of that day was a wide river crossing. The crew member took turn to guide each of us to wade bare footed through the fast rising and flowing freezing water. Cables were anchored at both sides of the river banks as a double precaution. The event left the crew members with red legs as although scalded by hot water. At Bara Bolander, we set camp as close as permitted by the snowline. That night, we were told that the number for the following morning was 234 = Wake up at 2 a.m., Breakfast at 3 a.m. and Start trek at 4 a.m.
As punctual as the sun, we were trekking up the scree-covered slope at 4 a.m. (Day 11) using our head lamps. Less than 1 hour into the trek, we had to halt for 10 minutes for the guide to clear a path through a glaciated slope. A false step would send one sliding down the steep slope. Thereafter, the trek was slow owing to the thin air and compounded by the thick ground snow covering the trail path. We were advised to follow our guide’s footsteps closely as not to fall into any deep crevices. Much energy and effort were spent thrusting our boots at a side angle into the snow as we trekked along for added grip on the ground snow and to balance ourselves up the snow covered slope. The weather was acceptable fine with little wind and a bit of snowing near the peak. The horsemen did a fantastic job of probing and in carving out a safe trail up the freshly covered snow slope to Bhapa pass for us. We did see from afar in trepidation how several horses tumbled down the snowy slope and the horsemen re-packing strewn cargoes on the horses’ back. Our guide spewed a sense of relief when he saw the horses making pass a ridge to Bhapa Pass. The reason being, if the horses were unable to cross over to Bhapa Pass, we would have to make a U-turn home.
There was a sense of happiness and achievement by the guide and his crew members when the last member made to the Bhapa Pass. It was then close to 12 noon. Apparently, we were the first group to make it to the Bhapa Pass from Bara Bolander side that season. Prior to the trek, our guide shared with us that his company had instructed their most skillful head horseman as our vanguard for this expedition given the reported heavy snowfall. The head horseman also gave us added confidence when he pledged that he would bring everyone across to Fauti (from Bara Bolander) by stationing horses to ferry us up and down, if need be.
From Bhapa Pass, there were more snow areas to transverse downhill. At one place, we decided to descend by sliding instead of trekking. The last 30 minutes to Fauti campsite involved a dangerous steep descent down a narrow mountain path strewn with scree.
Thankfully, all completed the snow trek safety except for a few small incidents falling into deep snow and sliding down the slippery snowy slope. It was about 4 p.m. when everyone reached Fauti campsite. By then, the horsemen had proactively set up our tents to rest and the kitchen crew subsequently served us hot noodle soup to rejuvenate our energy at our respective tents. The celebration of the successful Bhapa Pass crossing had to be deferred as everyone was dead tired that night.
We were given the privilege of starting late, at 10.30 a.m., the following morning (Day 12) to Mulling, our next destination. The trek to Mulling (3200m asl) was a pleasant 6 hours stroll over green meadows punctuated with blooming wild flowers and it involved several simple river and flat glacier crossings. That evening we held a campfire complete with roasted lamb, mango juice cocktail and barley liquour as well as singing and dancing to celebrate our successful Bhapa Pass crossing.
From Mulling, we began our descent early at 8.00 a.m. to Kafnu (2500m asl) to catch our transport to Simla. The 5 hours trek through lush alpine forest and down the steep Bhapa river bank was equally pleasant. The mountainous road journey to Simla took about 9 hours. It was past 11 p.m. when we reached our hotel in Simla.
For the photographs, please refer to http://happytrekker.shutterfly.com/pictures/9871.
Next: http://happyotrekker.blogspot.com/2011/07/india-golden-triangle-21-2562011-part-4.html
nice trek :)
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